Cozumel - A Different Mexico

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Park Royal CozumelI found myself making acquaintance again today with the Mexico City airport and availing myself of the opportunity to again consume tacos al pastor. I was through this airport on a trip this previous February. I could not help but notice at this tie the differences between the circumstances of the two trips. The Amateur Traveler show has enabled both trips but in a very different fashion. In February I took some of the proceeds from the show and spent them on a trip to Mexico (Mexico City and Oaxaca). This trip was being sponsored by Royal Holiday. They flew me down to Cozumel to show me the Park Royal resort in the hope that I would have a good time and write about it.

I enjoyed both my trip to Mexico City and Cozumel though to be sure two trips had little in common besides the passport stamp.

Crime

Mexico City can be an intimidating city with regard to safety and crime. The U.S. state department actually has language in their recommendations on Mexico City travel to avoid hailing a taxi on the street unless you want to die or some frightening words to that effect. On the plane into Cozumel I met an American who works as a security consultant who was flying down to close on a house. Before purchasing the house he has done a lot of research and said that Cozumel has almost no crime. Sandra, who works for Park Royal, told the story of a woman who was picking up a rental jeep. She was told it was a blue jeep, was on such and such a street downtown and the keys were in the car. As it turns out there were two blue jeeps on that street with the keys in them and she took the wrong one, but no one bothered to tell her until she checked in the wrong jeep. They assumed correctly that her mistake was accidental.

Infrastructure

Mexico City is a massive city that some predict will someday succumb to its own demand for resources and to its own pollution (underestimating the Mexico City inhabitants according to many). Cozumel also has limited resources as an isolated island. For this reason hotels when they were rebuilt, after the near total devastation caused by hurricane WIlma in 2005, were required to build:

  • desalination plants capable of meeting most of their water needs
  • water treatment systems that could render such water potable
  • sewage treatment systems
  • systems for composting organic waste

Cultural Distance

While Mexico City can certainly be intimidating there is no doubt that it supports a vibrant culture. The distance between Mexico City and the US was heightened by avoiding the Zona Rosa district which has become somewhat of a tourist gheto.

Cozumel sunset at the Park RoyalCozumel has an economy centered around tourism and thus often seems to have less distance between it and the United States which is one of its major customers. Cozumel seems to be a gateway to Mexico for those who are not ready to jump into Mexico with both feet. Cozumel is a place that will be very comfortable to Americans. It is a place where you do not need to speak Spanish and at times it seemed to me to be more like an extension of Florida rather than a foreign country. This will of course recommend it to some travelers and take it off the list for others.

Urban Jungle / Tropical Jungle

There is no mistaking from the moment that you fly over Mexico City the vastness of that city. Nor is there mistaking that you are on a tropical island as you fly in to Cozumel. The color of the water is strikingly beautiful in a way that I have only seen in the Caribbean. The landscape of the island seems only partly to be settled at all with much of the island still jungle. Almost all of the hotels are on the side of the island facing the other resort cities of the Mayan riviera. The far side of the island is more windswept, rugged and uninhabited. The Mayans believed that a woman should make a pilgrimage to Cozumel (to what we now know as San Gervasio) at least once as it was associated with fertility. I have no doubt that more than one honeymoon couple has found Cozumel to still have some claim on fertility.

So I find that I enjoyed both trips but in very different ways. Mexico City is a way to dive in deep into Mexico. It is challenging, exciting and bustling. Cozumel is welcoming, beautiful and relaxing. It is still Mexico, but not the one you have been seeing on the evening news. And speaking of the evening news, no so far as I have been able to learn there have not been cases of swine flu on Cozumel.

Travel to the Yucatan Penninsula of Mexico - Amateur Traveler Episode 163 Transcript

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the yucatan peninsulaThis is a transcript of an episode of the Amateur Traveler focusing on traveling to the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico.

Chris: I’d like to welcome back to the show Zora O’Neill, who has come to talk to us about the Yucatan, in Mexico. Zora, welcome back to the show.
Zora: Thanks so much, happy to be here.
Chris: I say welcome back to the show because Zora talked to us before about New Mexico, and has just written, or just published, I guess is true – you probably wrote some time ago – ‘The Rough Guide to the Yucatan’.
Zora: Yes. There’s a time lapse in travel guide writing – this was actually the second edition of ‘The Rough Guide to the Yucatan’ that just came out, so, I’m co-author on it, actually, with John Fisher, and he and I worked on the first edition about three years ago, and had a chance to really spruce it up again this time around.
Chris: Now, as a travel writer, when you are doing something like this, are you writing a guide because you get the opportunity to, and then, therefore, you go and learn the location, or was this a location you were already in love with?
Zora: Well, it’s funny. It’s been so long, I’ve been working on the Yucatan – I’ve been visiting the Yucatan for travel guide work for about five years, so it’s sort of hard to remember when I wasn’t familiar with the place. My original assignment from ‘Rough Guides’ was to update the Yucatan chapter of their Mexico book, and, at that point, I didn’t really know all that much about the place. I’d fantasized about taking a big car trip around the Yucatan and I had some contacts there, and they said “That’s great! Go!”, So that first trip was really a crash course, but now I’ve been going down there at least once a year, sometimes two and three times a year, ever since then.
Chris: Now, with Mexico driving, combining the words ‘car trip’ and ‘crash course’ sounds a little scary to me.
Zora: No, not at all, it’s actually really funny. I still remember when I left for my first trip. I had booked six weeks and I was going alone. I was a little bit scared, and, once I was down there, I really had to laugh. You hear so many, sort of, horror stories about Mexico, and driving especially, and terrible conditions of the roads, and bandits and policemen who try and give you tickets for nothing, and I encountered absolutely none of that, and, actually, the roads in the Yucatan are all stellar, there are no bandits as far as I have ever encountered, or even heard of, and the policemen are exceedingly polite, and it’s actually been great. And no crashes, so none at all.
Chris: Well, a while back, and this has been a little while since they’ve changed, I understood that, especially in Mexico City area, that people, when driving at night, found that they could see better if they left their lights off. They could see the lights of the other guy. Of course, that doesn’t translate very well to large groups of people! I haven’t seen that recently, so I think they’ve…

Travel to Oaxaca, Mexico - Amateur Traveler Episode 174 Transcript

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Oaxaca, MexicoThis is a transcript of an episode of the Amateur Traveler focusing on traveling to Oaxaca, Mexico.

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Today the Amateur Traveler goes to Southern Mexico to the land of chocolate and mole to Oaxaca.

Chris: I’d like to welcome to the show, Sarah Menkedick, who ‘s coming to us from Oaxaca, Mexico. Although you’re originally from Ohio, I understand. Sarah, welcome to the show.

Sarah: Thank you. Thanks for having me.

Chris: And Oaxaca happens to be a place that I am actually looking at going right now, so I was very excited to have Sarah come on and talk to us about this destination. Sarah, for those people who aren’t currently planning a trip to Oaxaca, why should they?

Sarah: Why should they go? Well, I was thinking about this and I thought really what Oaxaca has to offer. I mean it’s got the big tourist attractions and what not, but I think it’s the little things that are what draw people to Oaxaca. The coffee and the cafes and the empanadas and the local food and I think really the best thing about Oaxaca is just the ability to walk around and have amazing weather and awesome food and drink and just sort of get out of the whole rhythm of your daily life at home for a while.

Chris: Ok. Now I’m someone whose oddly enough been to Mexico 13 times and yet never really been to Mexico. I’ve just been over the border into Tijuana on some volunteer work.

Sarah: Ok.

Chris: What’s going to surprise me when I come to Oaxaca?
Sarah: Well, I think especially if you’ve been going to Tijuana, I think what’ll surprise you is that it’s so clean, at least in the city center. That’s what surprised me because I had been to Mexico City before. Mexico City, I like it, but it’s just total chaos. So Oaxaca is actually very clean, and orderly and the downtown is very sort of poetic and romantic. So, the only other places I have been in Mexico are Mexico City and in traveling around the state of Oaxaca. But that was the one thing that took me by surprise when I got off the bus here was I thought, wow, actually seemed very sort of laid back and ordered.

Chris: Now a lot of people probably in the US, for instance, who have heard of Oaxaca, and every time I say it I pause to try to make sure I say it right because we should mention how this is spelled for people who are going to try and look this up.

Sarah: Yeah. It’s tricky. It’s Wahaca. Like W-A-H. Wahaca.

Chris: But it’s spelled O-A-X-A-C-A.

Sarah: Yeah, yeah. It actually comes from a tree. It’s a oaxacy tree. It’s like if you come here, you’ll see a ton of them and they’re these trees that have these bean pods on them and they’re call oaxacy. So Oaxaca, the name Oaxaca, comes from that.

Chris: Oh. Ok. I did not know that. And, as I started to say, a lot of people who have heard of it from the US unfortunately heard about it from some of the negative press that it got what is a year and a half ago with the teacher’s strike.

Sarah: Yeah.

Chris: First of all we should say that you talked about it being clean and orderly. So really, at least for now, those troubles are behind it.

Sarah: Yeah. Well, it’s a pretty shocking difference because I was here for all of 2006 and into 2007. And then I moved to Beijing for a teaching position over there in China and when I left I mean there were still charred buses on the streets and there was still the remnants of chaos. And during that time in 2006, there was really almost no tourism and there were barricades everywhere. The city was occupied by the Federal police. And then I came back from Beijing, when was it, in summer of last year 2008 and it was a completely different city. I mean still they say tourism is about 70% right now so not at what it was. But yeah very, I mean, if you hadn’t heard that in the news or you hadn’t been there during that year, then you really wouldn’t even know. So it’s slowly growing back, which is why it’s kind of a good time to come now because it’s not too crowded, it’s not too full of tourists and it’s just sort of starting to take off again.

Chris: And especially for people coming down from the United States, there are some amazingly cheap airfares, which is why I’m looking at heading down this time. Less than $300 from San Francisco, for instance.

Lava Rocks!

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I have been following the adventures of Brian & Brooke at their travel blog “Brian & Brooke Against The World“, a young couple off to discover the world. Their latest adventure in Guatemala is worth repeating:

People are constantly handing out flyers on the street for the various travel agencies they work for. Brian and I found a fairly cheap tour to the volcano, Pacaya, for about $7 roundtrip for each of us and decided that it would be a good idea to climb an active, constantly erupting, volcano!

Back in the hostel, we were talking to Matt, who recently did the trek, and I really couldnt believe the stories he was telling about jumping over lava streams and witnessing rock break away as lava poured down the side of the mountain. He recommended we wear good shoes so they wont melt as easy. Funny thing is, he was absolutely telling the truth!

They have the video to prove it:


Brian and Brooke Climb a Volcano from Brooke Schoenman on Vimeo.

I have gotten close enough to touch lava in Hawaii (although still smart enough not to try) and it is truly an amazing experience.

Panama Canal Trip Journal

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This journal covers a cruise to Panama on Holland America through Insight / Geek Cruises. The cruise was a Shakespeare cruise done in conjunction with the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and a Mac cruise done in conjunction with MacWorld.

Friday November 2, San Jose to Florida

The alarm goes off very early when you are trying to be at the airport before 6am for a 6:50am flight. A close friend Brad volunteered to take us to the airport… a very close friend indeed. Although in reality it was his wife Janice who actually woke up when their alarm went off so very early in the morning.

Our flights to Atlanta and then on to Fort Lauderdale were both happily uneventful and we used the time to sleep, read magazines ( I brought 2-3 inches of my backlog for this leg of the trip), or do homework (Joan). We took a shuttle ($15 a person) to the Westin Fort Lauderdale where I was surprised to find that I had apparently reserved a suite.

Almost immediately after our arrival we went to a party put on by the Shakespeare at Sea / Insight Cruises program that we were joining for this trip. By the time that the evening was done we had met more people on this cruise without setting foot on the boat than we had in a week at sea on our previous cruise. Most of the crowd was older than us, some by a margin. They also were more regular or more recent patrons of the Oregon Shakespeare festival than Joan and I. I had gone to Ashland, where OSF resides, in 2006 with our kids and their high school drama group but we had not been to the festival for a few years before that. Before the birth of our kids Joan and I had gone more regularly. I had gone to Ashland with a group from my high school 4 years in a row in the 1970s. The vast majority of the people at the party were from the west coast and the majority were from the San Francisco bay area. We very quickly found interesting people to talk to. We even found some Mac people who ventured in from the Mac party and some others like myself who were fans of both Mac and Shakespeare.

Before going to bed I recorded a new introduction to an old episode of the Amateur Traveler podcast for publication on November 10th.

Read the rest of this entry »

Copyright 2009 by Chris Christensen